NEWBERG, Ore.—Wolves & People Farmhouse Brewery is back up and brewing after a catastrophic equipment failure in January forced a complete overhaul of its brewing system.
The brewery’s steam-jacketed brew kettle ruptured mid-brew on Jan. 4, just one day after a successful batch and one day before an ice storm hit the region. Unable to complete the brew or use the system again, owner Christian DeBenedetti faced a critical decision.
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“With the jackets ruptured behind copper and steel cladding and completely inaccessible, not only was there no way to complete that new experiment which we were excited about, nor was there a way to brew again on that system, perhaps ever,” DeBenedetti said.
After weeks of consultations with fabricators and insurance adjusters, Wolves & People opted to replace the entire brewing system. The brewery’s insurance company deemed the incident a sudden loss and agreed to back repair or replacement.
In a stroke of serendipity, DeBenedetti connected with Mike Paladino, the new U.S. sales representative for Italian manufacturer Della Toffola, on the same day insurance approved the claim. Della Toffola had seven brewing systems available that could replace Wolves & People’s damaged equipment.
“It was both incredibly lucky and exciting to work with this company which has been leading the European industry for decades—it’s over 100 years old,” DeBenedetti said.
The new system, slightly larger than the original with an additional vessel, allows Wolves & People to brew 20 hectoliters (roughly 40 50-liter kegs) in a single 9.5-hour day, doubling their previous efficiency. It includes advanced features that allow for more control and nuance in the brewing process.
Despite the upgrades, DeBenedetti emphasizes that Wolves & People will maintain its farmhouse approach.
“We are still milling our own grain, hand turning the 20-odd primary valves, and very much keeping the farmhouse approach alive,” he said.
The brewery completed installation of the new system in late August after four and a half weeks of intense work. DeBenedetti expects to resume brewing this week.
Alongside the equipment changes, Wolves & People underwent personnel shifts. Head brewer Shilpi Halemane recently left the company to pursue a career in food science. Eric Burda, former Director of Operations at the now-defunct Cascade Brewing, has been hired as the new Head Brewer.
“Eric’s tenure at Cascade included a successful time as lead blender as well and his resume is full of the kind of deep experiences that made him the best candidate for this unique job,” DeBenedetti said.
Portland, Oregon’s Cascade Brewing, which opened in 1998, announced its closure on June 17, 2024, weeks after the death of its founder, Art Larrance. The brewery won multiple local, national, and international awards for its barrel-aged sour beers over those 25 years.
In a nod to Cascade’s legacy, Wolves & People is collaborating with Alissa Larrance, who is winding down operations at Cascade, to source aging barrels and bulk barrel stock. These will be used in future Wolves & People releases.
The brewery is also partnering with Son of Man Cider to hire a shared sales representative. The position will be an independent LLC representing both brands.
Looking ahead, Wolves & People plans to continue brewing a variety of styles, including saison, Italian pilsner, fresh hop blondes, Neuberg Lager, and their popular Honeycone IPA. Distribution will continue through Day One Distribution in Oregon and select other markets.
DeBenedetti remains optimistic about the future of farmhouse brewing despite challenges in the broader industry.
“I feel so fortunate to be a farmhouse brewer and to be part of a growing movement amid some truly dark times in the overall industry,” he said.
In addition to brewing, Wolves & People is venturing into event planning. The brewery recently announced Newgrass 2025, a bluegrass and Americana/roots festival scheduled for March 14-15, 2025, at Chehalem Cultural Center’s new performance hall.
As Wolves & People enters this new chapter, DeBenedetti expresses gratitude for the support received during the transition.
“We want to thank everyone for being so patient as we’ve weathered this extraordinary and tricky passage in our history from a icy dead stop to what feels at the moment like a very exciting new era,” he said.
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