NEWBERG, Ore. — On Sunday mornings, the northwest side of Newberg may soon be filled with smells of smoking oak as two large, trailer-sized smokers fire up—or rather, fired up the night before—to prepare a fresh batch of smoked meats and sides for the new Briar Ridge BBQ food truck, now open Mondays at Chehalem Valley Brewing Company.
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Founded by Kyle and Sylvia Kapphahn, Briar Ridge BBQ brings the smoky flavors of Austin, Texas, to Newberg—complete with house-made sausages and classic sides.
“When we moved out here, we met a few other people from Central Texas, and the first thing we all talked about was how much we missed the barbecue,” Sylvia said. “We realized we could change that.”
Kyle picked up the art of smoking during their time in Texas after trying some of the region’s famous barbecue joints, including Franklin Barbecue and Terry Black’s Barbecue. Originally from Southern California, the Kapphahns first moved to Fort Worth in the 90s, where they said the barbecue didn’t stand out. It wasn’t until they arrived in Austin that they embraced the hype.
“I always liked barbecue,” Kyle said. “I wasn’t cooking barbecue at that time, but it was everywhere around us. Once we got to Austin, we visited some of the best barbecue spots in the country, and it was like something unlocked—I felt like I wanted to figure out how to make food like that.”
He bought a small Weber bullet smoker and started learning the craft, mostly cooking for family and friends. He later upgraded to a larger offset smoker, which uses a side firebox to produce an even, low smoke across the meat during the 10- to 18-hour cooking process.
Even though it requires more effort to maintain consistent heat, Kyle said the results are worth it—and the bigger size allowed him to smoke more meat.
“There was a point where I wanted to try another recipe or smoke another brisket and opened the fridge only to see there wasn’t any space,” he said. “So I started asking friends and family if they wanted some. Soon, I had an email chain with people placing orders.”
The Kapphahns moved to Newberg after 22 years in Texas to seek a better quality of life for their younger children. Their two eldest had just left home, and the two youngest were not yet in school.
“We had a moment where we asked each other, ‘Can we do another 20 years in Texas?’” Sylvia said. “And even though we loved the Austin area and felt the most comfortable there, it was still a slog. We were ready for a change.”
They fell in love with Newberg’s scenery and weather. Despite the pandemic complicating their move, they went ahead. With friends and family nearby, they started smoking again—and soon realized they could turn it into a business.
But not with their original smoker. It was large for a family but too small for commercial operations.
That’s when they learned about Hillsboro’s Ferttie’s Barbecue food truck closing on Oct. 5 of 2024—leaving a truck and two trailer-sized smokers up for sale. They seized the opportunity to bring Central Texas barbecue to Newberg.
What Is Central Texas Barbecue?
According to Travel Texas, Central Texas barbecue emphasizes simplicity and beef. It features a dry rub of salt and pepper, smoked low and slow over oak, mesquite, hickory, or pecan wood. It’s typically served by the slice, with sauce on the side and a slice of white bread.
Barbecue sauce is optional—but not necessary when the meat is done right.
“I would call it heavy pepper,” Kyle said. “You’re going to get a super dark brisket. Our secret recipe is very simple: oak, smoke, salt, pepper and time. That’s it.”
While the level of pepper would overwhelm other dishes, the smoking process mellows its bite, leaving a rich flavor.
“The only negative effect of black pepper is that you might find some in your teeth later,” Sylvia said.
Briar Ridge BBQ primarily uses oak, which Kyle said provides a milder smoke flavor than mesquite or hickory. He’s known for his brisket—a Texas staple—but also smokes pork shoulder for pulled pork and makes house-made sausages, alongside rotating specials.
Texas-style sausages reflect German and Czech influences, using black pepper and mild heat. Briar Ridge also uses sausage-making as a way to reduce waste, blending brisket and pork trimmings with spices to create new flavors.
“It’s German-influenced, but it’s really in its own category,” Kyle said. “You’re not going to be able to find anything else like this out there.”
While the protein is the star, Briar Ridge is also experimenting with smoked vegetables and mushrooms.
Kyle oversees the smoker, while Sylvia handles the sides—many of which are family recipes. The potato salad, for instance, is a three-generation-old recipe from Kyle’s family.
“It’s part mashed potatoes, part potato salad,” she said. “Which we know is a little strange—I hated it when I first tried it. But it is genius. It’s eight ingredients, so it’s very simple, but it’s the methodology that makes it special.”
She’s also introducing Texas-style queso, which she believes is new to Newberg. It’s tough to describe, she said, because it’s tough to find outside Texas.
“You really just have to experience it,” she said. “People will say, ‘It’s just melted cheese, what’s the big deal?’ And we have to show them—good queso is really a different experience.”
Other sides include smoked beans and fresh coleslaw, with plans to test out Texas-style chili, green spaghetti, and brisket fried rice.
“Kyle is German, Irish, Mexican, and Spanish. I’m Chinese, and so we’re thinking, how can we blend all of that to make something new and exciting?” Sylvia said.
Kyle works full time at Microsoft, which limits how often they can do long cooks. For now, they’re serving walk-up customers every Monday from 3 to 9 p.m. at Chehalem Valley Brewing and booking confirmed headcount events like winery clubs, weddings, and harvest lunches.
“It’s really difficult and expensive to work those events if you prep for 200 people and 20 show up—or the opposite,” Kyle said. “When it takes 12 to 18 hours to cook the product, you really want to make sure that time is accounted for.”
They have no plans for a brick-and-mortar location—at least not yet.
“We like to say this is our fifth child,” Sylvia said. “And it’s always going to be stuck in this phase—in infancy. It needs a lot of care and attention, and there’s no independence coming our way. I don’t think we’re ready to think about what’s next yet.”
In the meantime, you’ll find Briar Ridge BBQ parked outside Chehalem Valley Brewing every Monday this summer as part of the brewery’s Mobile Monday event.
As they’re getting started, the Kapphahns said they’re grateful for the warm welcome from the Pacific Northwest barbecue community. They’ve already connected with Grasslands BBQ in Hood River and Portland favorites like Podnah’s Pit BBQ, Har-BQ and Briel’s BBQ. As they’re setting up in Newberg, they look forward to connecting with local staples Storr’s and Hutch & Lucky’s Food Truck.
“It’s been such a supportive community,” Kyle said. “When they heard we were opening, they said they were coming down to check us out and support. We’ve helped with their cooks before. I look forward to helping build that community here in Newberg now too.”
Learn more at Briar Ridge BBQ’s website or follow them on Instagram for updates.
Updated July 8 at 8 p.m.—The original article stated the Kapphahns spent 30 years in Central Texas. They spent 22 years in Texas as a whole. Newsberg regrets the error.
