Chillable Reds Find Footing in Willamette Valley

WILLAMETTE VALLEY, Ore.—Sealionne Wine’s winemaker, Piper Underbrink, doesn’t particularly enjoy drinking rosé. In fact, she’s not much of a white wine drinker either. But during warm (and sometimes smoky) Oregon summer days, drinking red wine—while delicious—lacked a certain refreshment. Especially when enjoyed in Sealionne’s covered outdoor pavilion on Ribbon Ridge Road.

That’s when she started asking: why aren’t there more reds on the market that could take, if not benefit from, a little chill?

“It was definitely born out of curiosity,” Underbrink said. “And then once we started producing and distributing these chillable reds, people were really receptive. Now it’s one of our best-selling [products] this summer.”

Sealionne Wines is one of several producers in the Willamette Valley exploring the potential of what they’re calling “chillable reds”—red wines created to be served at cooler temperatures (45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit), closer to those of white wines than traditional reds (55 to 65 degrees).

A chillable red has no strict definition, but it generally refers to a red wine that can be served at cellar temperatures (45 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit) without losing its appeal. This narrows the scope to wines that feature juicy, fruit-forward notes, low tannin structure, and low to medium acidity; cold temperatures tend to suppress some flavors and aromas, bringing the tannins (drying, astringent) and acidity (tart, sour) more to the forefront.

“When I’m chilling something down, I don’t want the complex flavors of bigger, oak-aged red wines like vanilla, tobacco spice, or black olives,” Underbrink said. “I’m looking for bright cherry and fresh raspberry—those kinds of notes. It’s like beer; I want something citrusy and light when it’s hot out. We wanted to recreate that feeling in red wine.”

This led Sealionne to explore grape varieties that fit the bill. A stainless steel-aged pinot noir, which allowed the fruit to shine without adding tannic structure, was chosen for Sealionne’s 2022 Metier Pinot Noir, their chillable red release.

“The palate is really light,” Underbrink said. “And the profile is very light, texturally, due to not having any tannins from the oak. Any oak would overpower the fruit flavors you’d expect from a more traditional pinot noir. It’s a perfect red to serve at cooler temps.”

Lois Cho from Hillsboro’s Cho Wines also saw an opportunity to experiment with chillable reds, producing their 2023 Chillable Red. While rosé remained a summer powerhouse for the winery, Cho said the 2023 Chillable Red was just as popular as the tasting room’s seasonal favorite, the 2023 Rose City Rosé.

“I think the popularity of chillable reds signals a shift in the industry,” Cho said. “The younger generation drinks wine more casually and outdoors, especially in summer. A crushable, chilled wine is a must.”

Cho’s 2023 Chillable Red is a blend of two-thirds pinot gris and one-third pinot noir, co-fermented like a red wine and aged in neutral barrels. This provides just enough tannin for red wine drinkers while keeping the fruit and acidity upfront to make the wine refreshing.

While the concept of a chillable red isn’t new (few things in the ancient practice of wine production are), Underbrink and Cho said they’ve seen an uptick in popularity over the past few years. Part of this is due to younger wine drinkers seeking something different, while others are simply embracing a more casual approach to wine in tasting rooms.

“We moved to the Willamette Valley from Utah, where we were really interested in the biking and skiing culture,” Underbrink said. “Most of our friends live nomadic lifestyles or have smaller spaces that can’t house a cellar to age wine for 10 to 15 years. We wanted to make wine that they could enjoy right away.”

Chillable Reds Stocked On Retail Shelves

Local retailers are catching on to the category as well. Kristen Kidney, owner and head cheesemonger at Newberg’s Good Cheese Company, said she recently ordered a case of chillable red for her cooler to highlight the style.

“I’ve seen a little growth in the chillable red category,” Kidney said. “But more often, people show interest after I suggest it or they see it in the cooler—rather than coming in specifically looking for it. I imagine that will change as people try them more.”

Andrew Turner, owner of Valley Wine Merchants in Newberg, said he stocks reds from around the world that benefit from a slight chill. While local producers focus on wines from the region’s AVAs, lighter-bodied reds from alpine regions globally also fare well with some cooling.

“I don’t typically like a red to be too chilled—no more than 10 to 15 minutes in a refrigerator or ice bucket—as that mutes the fruit and highlights the structure,” Turner said. “Starting at cellar temperature (58 to 60 degrees) is ideal. It’s nice to enjoy that initial coolness and then experience how the wine evolves as it warms up.”

Kidney prefers to serve chillable reds at lower temperatures and enjoy them as they warm in the glass. Though relatively new to the style, she’s finding creative ways to pair them with cheeses from her shop.

“I think of a mood or season when I drink them, and late summer/early fall comes to mind,” Kidney said. “I currently have a great one from Italy featured on my tasting menu, paired with a ripe Taleggio—the bright fruit flavors and the rich creaminess are delicious together.”

Underbrink said that with a growing category like chillable reds, it’s best to approach them with an open mind.

“We always tell people to play around with it,” she said. “Buy a couple of bottles, put them in the fridge, and let the wine warm up in your glass as you drink it. That’s what wine is, at the end of the day—it’s all about personal preference.”